Tuesday 25 December 2012

Sail and Anchor new range reviews

Righto, post #365 (and on Christmas Day no less) deserves something special - here we go with a back-to-back, side by side tasting of the new range from Sail & Anchor.

Yes - it's a pub partially owned by faux-craft-hungry Woolworths branching out into its own range. Yes, these new beers have the potential to skew the focus of said establishment and its taps moving forward. But it's also one of the best beer bars in Australia we're talking about here - a place that consistently sources absolutely top shelf craft beer from around the world up to and including sours and other confronting styles.

As such I was cautiously optimistic heading into this. If Sail (well, Gage Roads) could produce a decent sort of range here it could only be a good thing both to cement it as a Freo institution, and to help drive more and more patrons toward craft beer. To put it more clearly, I want these to be good. I want them to succeed.

First impression having seen the range is it's disappointingly uninventive in what is a booming, exciting industry. Of four beers we have three potentially very similar styles: a 'pale', an 'amber', and a 'golden' - the other being a kolsch (incidentally, all four come out at pretty much exactly the same abv too, not a great sign). They're all named after sailors' knots, and marketed, well, interestingly.


Regardless, it's with the 4.6% Cat's Shank Kolsch we start.

I poured this one right down the middle of a large Weihenstephaner glass while chanting "the power of glass compels ye!" to try to induce a real German effort here, so the excess head isn't the beer's fault. It did however disappear pretty quickly.. pretty loose and shortlived. The beer itself is so clear as to be mystifying as to how they've filtered it.. it literally looks like light yellow water. You can easily read a computer screen through the glass. Weird. I don't know, maybe the average consumer really rates clarity or something, but as a brewer it just seems really very artificial when targeted to this level. Certainly doesn't look like beer.

The aroma isn't bad, sort of wheaty German notes playing with a note of lemon. But the flavour itself is gone in an instant, a fleeting miasma of sweet macro beer notes and candied lemon. Carbonation is admirably low here (at least, if you smash it in a big glass) which provides no barrier at all to basically inhaling this.

Inoffensive but unmemorable beer. Not bad.. but hard to find any really redeeming features either. 4.0


Next up the amber. Nice hops on the nose actually, darker hue but still very transparent.

Ambers can be pretty insipid stuff when done wrong, and this too carries a character of mostly (only?) miscellaneous sweet malts. It's not too bad ice-cold first up and the blatant overcarbonation at least hides the sweetness a little.

Once it settles however this becomes a real "vodka-cruiser" sort of a 5%-er, sugary rather than malty, processed feeling, not great. Too sweet by a distance. 3.5


Next up the pale ale, chosen because I frankly couldn't handle the thought of drinking a "golden" straight after that amber.

To be frank though this is the worst thus far - insipid clear yellow pour, indistinct sweet nose, horrid sweet brewkit sort of a sticky body, no hops to speak of, utter rubbish.

There is a vague hint of woody Australian yeast in the background there but it's a slap in the face to the wider industry. Why is it sometimes brewers (or perhaps more accurately marketers) choose 'pale ale' as the slops bucket for all their junk? Couldn't finish it, undrinkable. 2.0


Finally the Golden.

Again - and expected by now - this is unnaturally clear. It's a reasonable hue though for the golden moniker, shame the fluffy white head doesn't hang around.

I complained about the 'sameness' of these beers earlier - this illustrates it nicely in actively calling itself "amber" on the label. Smells of not much at all to be honest, maybe just a hint of noble hops. Vague sweetness.

Jesus it's an unexpected taste .. slightly fizzy again but wow, what this is I really don't know. It has a sweaty, old clothing sort of aroma when you first drink it and doesn't do anything to improve from there before a fizzy tonic water finish. Really quite disturbing. What have they done here? I have no idea how I'd even go about recreating this in the brewhouse - not that you'd want to. Horrible. 0.5


Overall then this is pretty poor. Given the commercial interests in play here I wasn't expecting brilliance or anything outrageous: it was always going to be a "peoples' session beer" sort of approach, and there's nothing at all inherently wrong with that. The sceptical part of me would also expect things to degrade over time after launch once the line is established, but for the beer on day one to come out like this is a real disappointment. It reeks of cost cutting, profiteering, and either a disdain or misreading of the clientele who have made this place what it is.

Given that four taps are permanently burdened with these at the Sail now, and other signs (lack of guest tap labels / crippled beer menu etc) pointing toward pushing them out, to a craft beer fan it's really not a good sign for the pub as a whole. Here's hoping it's not the beginning of the end.

Westmalle Trappist Dubbel

Something about the colour of this label makes me happy.

It certainly evokes the colour of the beer itself pretty well: an attractive leathery brown. The nose has a little bit of port / sherry going on and for 7%, comes across as a little bit intimidating first up.

The taste is a bit less overwhelming thankfully, putting across fruity alcoholic notes for the main. Not a lot of chocolate for a dubbel, probably not a beginner's beer either, but big and complex if you like them that way. Would probably go well with roast meat or similar sorts of big heavy dishes. Good stuff. 7.5

Rogue Voodoo Doughnut Bacon Maple Ale

Yep, a beer based on a doughnut.

And not just any doughnut: a bacon maple effort. Hence the frankly awesome bottle. It's a smoked beer at heart, with maple syrup in there too. The label actually suggests there's actual bacon in there too, which puzzles me somewhat. Do they put it in the mash?

Regardless, both key elements stand out on the aroma, and in flavour - it really does smell and taste like smoke, vague bacon, and maple syrup. Which sounds like a "hurr hurr funny" sort of a beer that you can't really drink, right?

Wrong. It's actually pretty bloody drinkable too. Odd, yes. Difficult, absolutely not. Top stuff, much respect! Only real problem is the nagging feeling of loss that we can't get those donuts here as a combo.. 8.5

8 Wired Super Conductor Double IPA

Oho, what have we here.. a DIPA based on the excellent Hopwired? Count me in.

It's certainly a seductive nose, with the hopwired heritage very much evident. I've said before I don't think NZ hops alone can generally carry a good IPA / DIPA, so it's mouthwatering to pick out the green lushness of NZ here mixed in with the sharper citric notes of their USA cousins. It's the perfect combination as far as I'm concerned.

Taste-wise this is just as bitter as you'd hope, but it's rounded thanks to the above and evolves through the mouthful to stay exciting and delicious throughout. Malts are just right - not lacking in any way, but not too obtrusive either, just a backing canvas to slash hop juice all over.

This one's obviously that bit bigger than its IPA counterpart, but still exudes that brilliant balance key to the style. Looks great, smells great, tastes great. Truly excellent - just need to try it side by side with Hopwired to see which one is better. Buy it. 9.0

Boon Oude Geuze

Back to lambic land for a vintage effort from Boon.

This is traditional geuze, ie a blend between old and young lambics to create a referment and that harsh sour + clean fizz effect you get with these. It's somewhere between Fonteinen and the reigning champion 100% Bio in terms of sourness I think, so you get a fair bit of wheaty grain character, but also a burst of genuinely sour stuff to refresh you also.

It's good stuff but still makes me think wistfully of Cantillon (it's not the only thing of course. Everything up to and including frogs, bedsheets, and christmas carols make me want it). Still - this one retails for around $15 for the big bottle where I am at the moment, which is comparatively not bad. Well worth a go at that price, may be a nice intro gueze for people to have a try of at your end of year functions too. 7.5

Rogue Brutal IPA

BRUTAL IPA! From a well-known, hop-connected, US brewery!! Are your nerves jangling for their hit of lupulus goodness yet?

Sorry to disappoint you then for this is no more brutal than a swat from a dehydrated kitten in the world of IPAs. It's a good looking pour with a nose that like a 5am crack fiend initially babbles all manner of fevered claims about grapefruit and lush grasslands, but soon subsides into a coma. With just 68 IBU on the tally, perhaps most of the hops here are added late?

The beer to taste is like a reasonably flat sort of basic IPA. There is a bit of bitterness but it's all high-end front of the mouth stuff with no backing juiciness to back it up. It reminds me distinctly of our very first homebrew using proper hops and the brew-in-a-bag method. That beer was good enough to make us start a brewery, yes.. but I wouldn't sell it, least of all under the moniker "Brutal" in the modern USA marketplace.

Speaking of which, it's true this beer has been around some time by the looks - but that isn't to say it hasn't been updated. Indeed, it used to be called Brutal Bitter, which makes significantly more sense given the UK-centric grain bill and overall lack of balls. So what's the reason to change the name? If I was a cynic, I'd -- oh wait, I am a cynic. They've changed the name because IPAs are far more popular.

This is not brutal, is borderline IPA, but isn't a bitter either. Buy something else. 5.5

Chimay Blanche / Tripel Yellow Label

The classic Tripel.

The photo's not done it justice in low light but it's a relatively high carbonated pour for an 8% abv but good looking. The nose is oh so sweet, notes of candied sugar and fairy floss, one of the most sugary smelling beers I can remember, and if you're like me this spells trouble.

Pleasingly however it's cloudlike on drinking: light, fluffy, and altogether very agreeable beer. There's a vinous sort of quality there somewhere in amongst the sweet malt, maybe just a faint edge of pineapple, good stuff whatever it is. Classic and would be lovely with something similarly light like chicken or fish. 8.5

Hitachino Sunday Cup Festival (range review)

Having previously enjoyed the XH and the Espresso Stout, it was time for a range review on some of the other beers currently purchasable locally from Hitachino in Japan.

First up the white ale, whose label confirms the traditional approach with additions of coriander, orange peel and nutmeg. It's a nice pour, though the beer itself is quite yellow. It's bright and not out of style, just different to some others. Nose is of candied orange, not as pithy as orange peel, bit sweeter and fresher but less bitey. As such the whole thing calls to mind a chewy orange lolly.

Taste-wise happily it manages to stay quite light with medium-high carbonation to back it up. The taste profile is pretty light and delicate but all the right flavours are there, before a burst of that sweet orange before the end. Strikes me as pretty sessionable stuff here on a hot day, with nothing really objectionable in the slightest. The perfect soft-spoken Japanese gent. 7.0

Wasn't quite sure what to expect from this "Real Ginger Ale" - was it a beer with ginger, or a ginger beer? Turns out to be the former, marked as happoushu because of the additions. This beer is marked at 7.0% on one label, and 7.5% on the other .. just like XH, this is something you wouldn't get away with in Australia.

It's a dark pour with a fair amount of particulate sediment and rye-like hue. The nose is curiously reticent, delivering not much above and beyond a suggestion of malt sweetness, but the taste doesn't hold back. Bang - dat ginger. It's a good soft mouthfeel here and kind of evokes Olde Stoney ginger beer meeting a spiced heavy ale of some description. All of which is nice, but it becomes harder and harder to deal with over time. Maybe better in the snow? 5.5

"Japanese Classic Ale" seemed somewhat of a misnomer first up given the nature of the beer scene in modern times. A closer look at the label however shows it's a replica of Edo period ales, matured in cedar as per old style English IPAs. Nice pour again with a good looking creamy head. I get peppery notes on the nose here along with a bit of warming alcohol.

That spicy character carries through into the ale itself - perhaps it's the barrel? - but it's a nice combination. The hops are evident if not dominant and it all comes together quite nicely at a professed 7.5%. I drank this happily the whole way through and found it interesting, well-made and compelling. 7.0

Continuing the theme with another solid seven percenter is the red rice ale. This one's a bit more reticent with the ingredients list which is a shame, as to me at least it feels a lot like it's had berries, cherries, or something similar added here which dominate everything else. The rice isn't very evident, but it is at least quite red, I guess.

I'm not really sure about this one - it didn't really do what you'd think it would and felt a bit out of place the whole time. I didn't dislike it, but neither would I seek it out again. 5.5

Onward then to the commemorative new year celebration ale, at 8% (at least, knowing these guys). This is the 2011 edition and understandably speaks of forgetting the troubles of the year past. It's spiced with coriander and cinnamon among other things - one could expect it to be a big heavy in line with the Japanese (winter) new year.

This drop is sour up front then quite spicy and complex. Not as malty as expected, but thought provoking nonetheless. I wonder if the sour edge is from age, or if they have again used their access to sake barrels and the like to give it a bit of something special - whichever it is, it lifts this beer a little and makes it quite compelling to drink. Slight nectarine / apricot nectar notes. Interesting if not delicious. 6.5

Finally to the sweet stout. I'd been recommended away from this one by a stout-drinking of some repute, but  after drinking this one I was quite happy with it. It's just 4% and clearly designed along the lines of the typical dry / sweet stout. Good colour in the pour, lovely nose of raw choc malt also. It's sweet in that it has definitely had lactose introduced, but not overly sweet in terms of flavour balance. Instead there's a nice roasty character for the main combined with an edge of coffee.

It's light beer yes but I'd argue not watery (ie, not unintentional). Lasting roasty aftertaste is pleasant. Good beer. 7.0

All in all an interesting selection and enough to confirm my wish to visit when next in Nippon.

Burleigh Brewing HEF

HEF, the label boldly proclaims. I've got to say I like the moustache on there too. Subtle but persuasive, like a well practiced pool boy.

Hef here also won gold at the world beer cup in 2012 - quite the achievement in what is a class filled with competition both new and ye olde. I'm not one to place too much store in these awards overall but drinking this, it's easy to see how it's done so well.

Perfectly on style it seems with all of the elements you'd expect from a hefeweizen, the beer also manages a lovely mouthfeel to ensure you experience it all as you drink. Typical banana, cloves, sweet yeasty notes, creamy head. Nothing radical, just a bloody good hef. Trust in the mo.

Good stuff, needs a retry, looking forward to slamming back a 6-pack over the summer sometime.. 8.0

Lindemans Pecheresse

Two pictures. One's where it started (with evocative label on show) - the other's where it went shortly after tasting.

For you see, this beer is SWEET - not in the bogan suburban sort of way, but in the horrific-visions-of-corrective-dental-surgery sort of way. I couldn't handle it at the fridge-cold temperature it initially occupied, opting instead to try to get it right down to near-freezing. It didn't help much.

This beer is just 2.5% so should be lightweight, but lacks the backing sourness to keep up with the mountains of sweetness it delivers. Were it balanced properly, I think it would be quite nice. As it is though.. it's kind of like an even stickier Japanese plum wine umeshu. Pretty hard to get through if I'm honest.

I'm not against fruit lambics - far from it. But this has little use I think for anyone. It's neither beer, nor a gateway to beer.. more a crazy low alc liqueur. If you have the choice, go for Lindemans Apple instead as it is worlds better (and may help convince vapid slack-jawed cider addicts to give up their sugar-water too!). 2.0

Rogue Dry Hopped St. Rogue Red Ale

Not too amber in the darkness but in the flesh it's definitively red - good to see.

It's an 'amber ale' this by most accounts, and that's a style with which we've struggled a bit in the past. There's a tendency for these to come through tasting a bit like sweet wort with not a lot else on the table. Dry hopping is a good plan to help counter the cloying nature of the style though - at least in theory?

Drinking this beer you feel comfortable for the express reason that you know what's coming. It's a red ale. And it's dry hopped. There's no surprises, and no disappointment. Your expectations have been managed. And on top of that, it turns out to be a lovely sessionable drop at a paltry 5.2%.

There's not a lot here that's complicated - sweet golden / amber start meanders toward a mid-bitter end - but it's refreshing and makes you wonder how much of it you could drink, in a gulp or over the course of an evening. Solid, reliable beer. 7.5

Young's Double Chocolate Stout

Cadbury-esque colours here on what is a pretty easy to find double chocolate stout.

It's a pretty standard sort of setup here - fluffy head, light black colour, nose of dry cocoa, taste pretty much likewise. It's maybe a bit watery, perhaps a bit less lush than you might expect from the moniker 'double'. Indeed there's only really one chocolate I taste in it.

Overall this is kind of like a watered down Choc Hops - or more to the point I suppose Choc Hops is like a geared up, better quality version of this. Still, could be a lot worse. 6.5